White Wines Are Lovely in Winter Too (And All Year Round)
By Laura Conde, wine writer
For years, an idea has prevailed, one that would benefit from a reassessment: white wines should only be drunk in summer. This notion might have taken hold because the freshness and lightness of these wines are such a good fit for the summer heat, long days, and outdoor meals. However, plenty of whites are also sufficiently full-bodied, structured, and nuanced to make for fine year-round companions. In fact, some of the world’s greatest wines are whites capable of delighting us in both winter and summer.
While we’re at it, let’s examine another myth: whites should only be paired with fish. Luckily, this belief ran out of steam some time ago, and plenty of people enjoy a good, well-structured, personality-driven white with traditional autumnal meat stews. Whites are not only refreshing – they can also provide cosy comfort. They can be viscous, deep, age-worthy, and enormously versatile when it comes to food.
For some examples, we must look no further than three Familia Torres wines that reflect a variety of styles and provenances: Milmanda, Clos Ancestral Blanco, and Pazo das Bruxas. They all demonstrate that the world of character-driven white wines is full of stories and that autumn, when life slows down and becomes more contemplative, is a great time of year to listen to what they have to say.
Milmanda, elegance and structure
The vineyards of Conca de Barberà, nestled around Poblet Monastery, bring us Milmanda, a Chardonnay from more than 40-year-old vines that grow in calcareous soils in a climate of contrasts. Fermented and aged in barriques (12 months in French oak), this is a white wine with the soul of a red: creamy, complex, with notes of ripe fruit, vanilla, and mineral undertones. Its mouthfilling texture and balanced acidity make this a perfect companion for winter fare, from poultry roasts to creamy mushroom soups, cannelloni or any truffle recipe.
Milmanda, DO Conca de Barberà, made from the Chardonnay variety
Clos Ancestral Blanco, the Mediterranean in every sip
Hailing from Penedès, closer to the sea, Clos Ancestral Blanco represents Familia Torres’s commitment to recovering ancestral varieties. In this case, Forcada, a pre-phylloxera variety that joins Xarel·lo to create a lively wine, laden with white fruit, herbal, and floral aromas.
Fresh, food-friendly, and more informal in style, it pairs beautifully with a light summer meal as well as with autumnal dishes involving roasted veggies, fish or rice. The wine is astonishingly versatile, as evidenced by how well it combines with many of the typical recipes and ingredients from its region of origin: from a plate of Vilanova prawns to a delicious PDO Gall del Penedès cockerel stew. It also finds a great match in warm autumn salads with pumpkin and sweet potato or chestnut-based recipes.
Clos Ancestral Blanco, DO Penedès, made from the varieties Forcada and Xarel·lo
Pazo das Bruxas, Atlantic essence
Pazo das Bruxas originates from the misty vineyards of Rías Baixas, bathed in the humidity of the Atlantic Ocean. An Albariño varietal, it pays tribute to the nature and legends of Galicia. Its distinctive acidity and minerality make it a perfect match for fish and seafood, but also for more intense foods like creamy cheeses or oven-roasted poultry. The wine’s freshness not only lifts, but balances and enhances flavours, reminding us that a good white can elegantly combine with just about any dish.
Pazo das Bruxas is an incredibly versatile wine that pairs well with numerous autumn recipes. That said, if you want to uncork an authentic Galician journey (even if only for the palate) pair the wine with lacón con grelos – a traditional pork-and-greens dish – a good seafood empanada or a caldeirada fish stew.
