Wine Conversations
The search for perfection, for excellence at every stage of the winemaking process. A chimera. What some might see as an impossible aspiration is what motivates others to keep working. Xavier Rubires explains the importance of paying attention to every detail.
Jean Leon's story is one of a young idealist who fought for his dreams and made them a reality. How does the winery stay true to this spirit?
With the same determination. Day after day, the entire Jean Leon team keeps up the spirit that drove him to realize his dream of producing a prestigious wine in the Penedès. A while back, we came up with a name for anyone who has participated or is participating in the production of a Jean Leon wine: Cor de Lleó (lion heart in Catalan; a play on Jean Leon's name, because león means lion in Spanish). Perhaps it comes down to that—an indomitable, nonconformist spirit in search of something as chimeric as making the best wine.
Figures touched by genius have an evocative quality. Where does a wine with the name Jean Leon take us?
To the glamorous 1950s. Personally, Jean Leon makes me think of cinema, of Hollywood and those American movies I used to watch on Sábado Noche. They usually starred people like Frank Sinatra, Zsa Zsa Gabor, Grace Kelly... I enjoy the thought that at some point in their lives these legends almost certainly tried a wine made in the heart of the Penedès. And perhaps, through the wine, we gave them a sense of a landscape, of aromas and a style that are quintessentially Mediterranean.
The details are what give great projects their magic. What is the secret to making limited-production wines of singular personality?
Believing in the project, feeling like you are a part of it. Seeking perfection, even in details that may seem insignificant. Taking risks...I think that is the secret.
A project thrives if the right people lend their support. For me, this happened to be the director Pilar Miró. Who played a key role in the winery’s story?
There are key figures, definitely. The first to spring to mind after Jean Leon is clearly Jaume Rovira. He was the winery's enologist for 40 years and a true master in the art of winemaking. I was lucky enough to share a lot of experiences with him, and I have no doubt that he is largely responsible for the spirit we talked about earlier. Then there is Miguel A. Torres, who took up the baton after Jean Leon passed away and stayed true to his commitment to quality. On a personal level, Miguel Torres Maczassek, who invited me to come on board back in December 2003, and Mireia Torres, who keeps striving for and encouraging excellence in every aspect of what we do.
A wine poses questions, reveals secrets, awakens emotions... What message do Jean Leon wines convey today?
We have two different ranges. The 3055 wine range has a more youthful, cheerful, fresh style that seeks a clear, straightforward profile of the varieties we grow. Staying with our cinematic theme, a "general audience" pleaser aimed at new wine drinkers.
And the other range?
These are our single vineyard wines: Vinya Palau, Vinya Gigi, Vinya Le Havre and Vinya La Scala. Wonderfully complex, barrel-aged wines that lend expression to their specific terroir and are very limited in production. These are great choices for people who are already well versed in the world of wine and seek out unusual or distinctive characteristics.
Raise a glass. What makes you happy?
A lot of things. Spending Sundays with my wife and kids, a bike ride around the Penedès in spring. Also, getting home after a long, exhausting harvest day with the satisfaction of knowing that picking the Chardonnay at night was worth it so that people around the world can enjoy our wine. And, it goes without saying, sharing a bottle of wine. My friends can attest to that.
MERCEDES SAMPIETRO
ACTRESS
Born in Barcelona, Mercedes is an actress, director and screenwriter with a successful career in cinema, theater, television and dubbing. From 2003 to 2006, she was president of the Academy of Cinematic Arts & Sciences of Spain.
