Familia Torres has demonstrated its commitment to preserving old vineyards through an exclusive tasting held on Monday, February 3, at the Barcelona Wine Week. Mireia Torres, Director of Innovation and Knowledge at Familia Torres, together with sommelier Sergi Castro, presented a selection of wines crafted from old vineyards owned by the winery across the wine regions where Familia Torres operates, both in Spain and Chile. These wines highlight the value of vine age and the balance that vines achieve over time.
According to Mireia Torres, “Old vineyards are a legacy that must be preserved, not only as a historical and cultural heritage but also as a source of biodiversity.” She emphasized the importance of carrying out massal and clonal selection in these vineyards to maintain this biodiversity. Beyond age, she added, balance is key: “Old vines have adapted to the soil, geomorphology, climatic variables of the area, and other parameters, all of which contribute to the balanced development of the vineyard and the quality of the wines,” she explained.
Familia Torres currently owns 75 hectares of vineyards in Spain that are over 40 years old, 17 of which are more than 60 years old. Additionally, more than one-fifth of the grapes purchased by the winery from Catalan growers come from vines over 35 years old. Familia Torres' commitment to viticulture was strengthened by Miguel A. Torres in the 1960s when he began acquiring land and vineyards to produce high-quality wines. Sommelier Sergi Castro highlighted the role of the current president of Familia Torres as a viticulturist, not only for his dedication to the vineyard but also for his ability to identify the most suitable soils for the optimal development of each variety.
Five Expressions of Old Vines
One clear example of this is the 15 hectares of Chardonnay planted in 1980 around the Milmanda Castle in Conca de Barberà, which produce the iconic Milmanda (DO Conca de Barberà). The tasting, titled “5 Expressions of Old Vines,” began with a lot from the oldest plot of the estate, which surprised attendees with its vibrancy and freshness. This was followed by Milmanda 2015, crafted by winemaker Joaquim Massana, an excellent vintage that showcased the wine’s aging potential and will now be part of Familia Torres’ Private Collection.
However, the region that best exemplifies the uniqueness of old vineyards is Priorat, where vines must be at least 75 years old to be considered as such. In this region, Familia Torres produces two highly limited wines, Perpetual and Mas de la Rosa, crafted by winemaker Jordi Foraster. Perpetual was first produced in 2005 to help preserve this viticultural heritage and is primarily made from old Carignan vines from five municipalities. In addition to Perpetual Vinyes Velles 2019, described as “pure velvet” by Sergi Castro, the tasting included a lot from the Els Cargols estate, which will be part of the 2023 blend. This spectacular 2-hectare vineyard, planted 86 years ago, is in El Lloar, near the winery.
Another unique expression of old vines from Priorat is the exclusive Mas de la Rosa 2020, sourced from a historic estate in Porrera acquired by Familia Torres in 2016. This small vineyard of Carignan and Grenache, planted on steep slopes before 1939, conveys its essence with extreme finesse and delicacy.
Beyond Catalonia, in Ribera del Duero, half of the vineyards owned by Pago del Cielo—nearly 30 hectares—are over 35 years old, which is already considered old vines in this region. One of the proposals by winemaker Juan Ramón García, who has led the project since 2005, is Celeste Reserva, made from Tinto Fino vines aged between 40 and 85 years, which are vinified separately. During the tasting, a lot from the 2021 harvest of the Valdegumiel vineyard, located in La Horra, was presented. This 65-year-old, 1.3-hectare vineyard will be part of the blend and was compared to Celeste Reserva 2019, which, according to Sergi Castro, “is an example of the quality of fruit from old vineyards.”
Beyond Spain, the paradigm of old vineyards for Mireia Torres and Sergi Castro is undoubtedly Manso de Velasco from Miguel Torres Chile. “Chile is a viticultural paradise,” said Mireia Torres, “not only because of its favourable climatic conditions, with strong thermal contrasts due to the proximity of the Andes and the Pacific Ocean, but also because phylloxera never arrived, and there are still exceptional vineyards over 100 years old.” Manso de Velasco is the oldest productive Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard in Chile. Located in Curicó, it was planted in 1902 on its own rootstock and spans 10 hectares. The wine was first produced in the 1985 vintage as Miguel Torres Chile’s first premium wine under the concept of a single-estate wine. Crafted by winemaker Eduardo Jordán, Manso de Velasco 2020 is a magnificent example of the complexity, balance, and quality that old vines can express.
With this tasting held as part of the Barcelona Wine Week, Familia Torres not only highlighted the richness of old vineyards and the need to preserve them but also reaffirmed its commitment to sustainability and the conservation of viticultural heritage. These wines are a testament to the winery’s efforts to preserve the biodiversity and history of the regions where it operates.
