Wine in the Words of Women

They are living proof that something has changed in the industry. These young, talented women are curious, dynamic bloggers and tweeters who have put their smartphones, keyboards and words at the service of viticulture, enology and wine tourism.

Start following them and you'll know what we mean.

Introducing:

Cristina Alcalá (@alcalacristina). Wine writer and professional taster with a master's degree in viticulture and enology.

Ruth Troyano (@rtroyano). Journalist and sommelier-in-training with a master's degree in wine tourism planning and management.

Meritxell Falgueras (@winesandthecity). Sommelier, writer, international jury member and university researcher.

Lets get straight to the point:

What has failed in terms of communicating wine culture for so many people to feel disconnected from it, even see it as something unattainable?

Cristina Alcalá (C.A.): I think several factors play a role. For one, the new dynamic in wine culture involves a different generation of consumers whose approach to wine and expectations are also different. The socioeconomic context has changed, and the formulas and approaches that used to work are now obsolete, because the market is far more segmented and diverse. Perhaps the wine industry—the wineries, media, distributors, etc.—has evolved at a slower pace than the demands of wine enthusiasts. The industry has maintained its traditional discourse and a language rife with technical terminology that puts off certain kinds of consumers.

Ruth Troyano (R.T.): It all comes down to education. Many of us received it almost innately. I remember the wineskin my grandfather in Riba-roja d'Ebre had, the porrón [a wine jar with a long drinking spout] sitting on the table and my grandmother's afternoon snacks: bread, wine and sugar. Nowadays we are very disconnected from rural life and this type of knowledge no longer exists in our homes. In my opinion, it is something we should be offering in schools. The wealth and diversity of our food and agriculture is immense, and children need to learn about it. One of the reasons that more and more people are recycling at home is because kids learned about it at school and, in many cases, encouraged their parents to do it. Why not do the same for wine? It is absolutely essential to know the origins, the roots, of our culture. I believe that we have lost sight of this—and significantly so—in recent years.

Meritxell Falgueras (M.F.): Perhaps the issue hasn't been addressed assertively enough. Wine has gone from being poorly understood and misused as a way of getting drunk to being put on a pedestal and labeled as a "difficult" product. We have to look at wine and find a way of understanding it that comes naturally to us and is entirely our own.

What needs to change?

C.A.: The perception of the wine world. I think the message needs to be adapted to the kind of person being addressed. Wine is pluralistic, dynamic, hedonistic, social, often complimentary to the occasion and at times an object of desire. Stripping away hang-ups and preconceived notions so that wine is seen as something natural, fresh and dynamic would help in getting more people interested in wine.

R.T.: We need greater awareness of how important it is to return to our roots. Now, thanks to the slow food movement and locally sourced products, we are once again appreciating what we have around us and that is good. Quality first, followed by local production. In terms of wine culture, I think there has been a lack of education about this incredibly important sector. Communication is another issue. We have made it so difficult and inaccessible that a lot of people are reluctant to taste, experiment and enjoy wine.

M.F.: Communication, definitely. Wine is neither complicated nor reserved for snobs and old people. Wine is easy, fun, modern and traditional; it is culture, design, art, nature... Anything we want it to be!

Lets talk about the role of social media in communicating wine culture. Based on your own experience, what would you say that new technology and new communication channels have contributed to the wine world?

C.A.: I have worked for both the mainstream media (print and radio) and trade publications, and now I also actively engage on social media. I think it is possible to innovate in every medium, but social media has broken down a lot of barriers in a very short time—and not only in the wine world. It has changed the traditional relationship between medium and message, giving a voice to those who didn't have one before and in the process making information and opinion much more globalized and widespread. Social media has also diversified the range of wine-related businesses. It is a constantly evolving source of information, new trends, personal experiences, international news... I think this is only the beginning of something so new and groundbreaking that it is difficult to say what lies ahead. Regardless, I think it will be positive, because the wine world needs a push; it has to reach new goals if it wants to shake this image as something unattainable and exclusive.

R.T.: I firmly believe that social media needs to be used in a disciplined, responsible and professional manner. By working this way, I think we can build closer relationships and establish contact with experts, with our desired audience... But one has to know how. The wine world has been democratized to some extent, just like any other sector with a social media presence. But simply being on social media is not enough. These platforms require a strategic, well-planned approach that views results in the long term. In short, consistency and persistence. And, most importantly, dialogue. Social networks are made for conversation; monologues don't get you anywhere. By using them on a regular basis, we learn something new every day.

M.F.: As a consumer, it has become easier to know what others are drinking. Getting to know new brands, finding out what is happening at shows without actually being there, seeing what such-and-such critic thinks of a specific vintage—now you can get information online that you didn't have access to before unless you went to wine fairs or visited wineries.

But amid so much "noise"...how do you separate the wheat from the chaff? Who does one follow?

C.A.: This makes me think of a story about an encounter between Ortega y Gasset and the bullfighter El Gallo. When he tells him that he is a philosopher, El Gallo replies, "Well, the world needs all kinds of people." The same is true for social media and therein lies the crux of the matter. It is seemingly easy to use, the technology is intuitive and caters to the user, but I think it is far more complex. Social media takes up a lot of time. You have to analyze each individual, know where they are coming from, analyze what they can contribute, do follow-ups...and so much of it is about ego and pretense.

R.T.: We have access to more communication tools and media than at any other point in history, but being well informed is also more difficult than ever before. I think we have to take the time to identify authoritative sources and the professionals who can provide us with knowledge and are serious and creative in what they write and publish. The web exercises its own form of natural selection. Figuring out who is and isn't successful is a question of time. The successful ones are usually those who innovate, create, come up with new ways of communicating wine. They approach it from a professional angle. It is important to express yourself through what you know. At the moment, I'm learning about wine in my sommelier course. This is why I began by talking about people, landscapes, moments. When it comes to companies, I don't think it is a good idea to only focus on self-promotion: they should talk about the land, history, passion, values. This is the only way they will get others to talk about them. The role of the advocate is crucial and should always be kept in mind.

M.F.: Personally, I follow the most influential wine writers (Jancis Robinson, Robert Parker, Oz Clarke, Tim Adkins, Víctor de la Serna, to name a few) to find out what is going on. But I also admire a lot of sommeliers and bloggers who offer a more direct and personal take on the wines on the Spanish market.

Tastings, fairs, wine tourism activities, wine bars opening up at every corner... Is this apparent boom in wine culture a fleeting phenomenon or is it here to stay?

C.A.: I don't think it is fleeting. The so-called wine boom has been going on for years. It is here and will keep on going for many years if things are done right and there is a willingness to adapt to the given moment. The wine world is always changing and we have to reinvent ourselves constantly with an eye toward the future. I'm certain that there is still a lot to discover and enjoy.

R.T.: I think we are experiencing a high point. There are several reasons: for one, our country's high-quality winegrowing and winemaking; and secondly, the fact that wine tourism is on the upswing. Some wineries sell 60% of what they produce at their winery and that is the goal. Plus, you get the chance to learn about the wine you are tasting, where and how it was made. I can't think of anyone better to talk about this than the person who made the wine. When you visit a winery, you aren't taking home a bottle of wine, but a story to tell on the day you open and share it with others. The rise in exports and international recognition of Catalan wines has given us that bit of confidence we always seem to be lacking. Finally, I also feel that there are projects that believe (and this is key) in good communication. If we don't communicate, we don't exist. In short, we can't recommend and sell what we don't know. This means that a lot of factors come into play. Wine has formed part of our culture for more than 2500 years, and we have to convey the passion and excitement that has always gone with it, both then and now, to coming generations. Young winemakers will play a decisive role in this. New consumers need new models.

M.F.: It will keep growing! We still have a lot of work to do to reach the level of organization one finds in Napa Valley... And the media still needs to give wine the attention it deserves, a spotlight alongside the cooking shows.

However, it seems as though we, as wine producers, aren't all that successful at finding ways of connecting with a younger audience... What are the main obstacles that prevent young people from feeling comfortable around wine?

C.A.: Young audiences, just like any other consumer group, have their own codes, and one needs to know how to decipher these codes. The language, image, expectations, relationships, emotions...you need to know how to connect with them, because wine is an incredibly special drink that also has its own codes. You need to give in order to receive.

R.T.: I recently went to Tuscany, and every table at a pizzeria full of young people had an open bottle of wine on it. It was exhilarating, really. If it can happen there, why not here? Young, fresh, accessible, fruity wines are out there so why aren't young people drinking them? We aren't aware of them, that's why. We have not been educated about the culture of wine and, by extension, gastronomy, even though it is a food product included in the Mediterranean Diet, which has been declared a Cultural Heritage of Humanity by the UNESCO. What are needed are actions aimed at young people and designed around their lifestyle, around what they do for fun. At the Reus Vive el Vino fair a year ago, the organizers held a Disco Wine Rave with live concerts in a big open area of the city, which showed how interested university-age consumers are in wine and saw young winemakers discovering their influences.

M.F.: Exactly, it's a matter of codes. Using their language to talk about wine. Instead of saying "this wine deserves 100 points," say something like "this wine rocks, because it'll impress your boss."

To wrap things up: in light of the new rules of the digital game, what should be expected of wineries and the people who talk about wine? What role should we play?

C.A.: When engaging on social media it is important to be socially rather than individually minded, to participate in a lively public discussion, interact and be consistent. The focus has shifted from "I" to "WE". Listening is important. The digital world gives us the chance to engage directly and respond to and learn from the needs of consumers.

R.T.: Training, first and foremost. Followed by professionalism. The ability to honestly and elegantly communicate the tangible and intangible aspects of the wine world. Be clear in encouraging people to drink responsibly and convey to consumers what we are—a country with a long, rich winegrowing and winemaking tradition. A country with a landscape unlike any other, an enviable Mediterranean climate, local varieties that result in exceptional wines, and that getting to where we are now has only been possible thanks to the enormous effort of countless generations. And to keep in mind something I once heard the great winegrower René Barbier say, that the price of grapes is the price of a farmer's dignity. And together we have to make sure it is as dignified as possible. They are the keepers of the landscape, as Josep Maria Cots, a winegrower from Falset, is fond of saying. I believe that the wine industry, wine tourism and all of the wine-related restaurants, hotels and service industries should steer their work in this direction. Be authentic, natural, unique. We should be proud of our wine and grape industry, and there are plenty of expert voices out there who can explain it very well.

M.F.: Explain in an informative manner what makes wine such a singular drink, the fact that it holds a unique position where pleasure, gastronomy and our history come together.