Wine Shop Talk (VI): Martín Berasategui
“The kind of food that I make has a direct influence on what I drink. This means strong, character-driven wines that are unique in the world.”
Martín Berasategui is the gastronomic father of countless chefs who are as international in presence as his signature restaurants. From its home base in Lasarte, his renowned Garrote builds followings, fosters progress and broadens the (Michelin) star-filled firmament in both reach and number. He has seven stitched on his jacket, making him the “red bible's” most highly decorated Spanish chef. At his many restaurants, he gives wine the recognition and stature it deserves.
“My introduction to the wine world happened a long time ago, when I was very young, at Bodegón Alejandro, the restaurant run by my parents and aunt. I used to watch my father bottle wine from Alcanadre and began to realize its importance.”He has continued to learn about wine ever since, mostly from the sommeliers who come through his restaurant in Lasarte or one of the many he runs in other parts of the world.His enological passion is not limited to simply uncorking and tasting wine. Four years ago, he introduced a rosé and a white wine, as well as several liqueurs, bearing his name.
At his restaurants, Berasategui pays attention to every detail. The same is true when he sits down for a meal in the dining room. He focuses closely on the service and every team’s performance without feeling the need to correct or jot down errors on the fly: “That is not something I normally do.” “Restaurants like ours need a person who is well versed in gastronomic culture overall, capable of managing our resources well and conveying our professional philosophy to the customer.” This is what Martín Berasategui expects from a good sommelier. He also trusts that he or she will always serve him champagne, because this is the wine he identifies with most.
He firmly believes that what we drink also defines us: “The kind of food that I make has a direct influence on what I drink. In my case, this means strong, character-driven wines that are unique in the world. I think this is why I like champagne so much.” In his private cellar, he insists on “good champagnes, good cavas, good white wines, good red wines, good sparkling wines, etc. In short, everything has to be good and pair well with a good menu.” Sweet wines are in ready supply too, which he “always likes to pair” with his desserts: “I like combining flavors and contrasting dishes of my own creation with original, signature dessert wines.”
As a great wine connoisseur, Berasategui would never allow for a pairing that “overshadows the flavors of the food, because it should never suppress the essence of the dish.” He respects initiatives, such as the one supported by David Muñoz, to break certain taboos when it comes to wine and food. Contrary to what others may think, he believes his clientele is “very knowledgeable about the world of wine.” And if they aren't, he points to his restaurants' experienced professional sommeliers who are ready to resolve any doubts guests may have and provide them “with the best possible advice.”
When it comes to Bodegas Torres, he mentions two“undeniablyexemplary wines”: Milmanda, which he describes as “a unique Spanish white,” and Mas La Plana, “the best Cabernet Sauvignon in the country and one of the best in the Old World.”
