JULIO CARRETER

“...the uncertainty of knowing that the same vineyard and the same vine will give us different grapes every year, and that we will continue learning as we try to express their full potential in every bottle.”

Julio Carreter, cellar master and enologist at the La Carbonera winery (DOC Rioja), is originally from Vitoria-Gasteiz. His understanding of life and wine has been shaped by landscape and memory: a memory that has been with him his whole life; a man who was born to dedicate himself to his land and trade.

Thinking about wine and his childhood brings up many fond memories—memories of family meals, with everyone gathered around the table, which was never short of good wine.

“The sound of wine pouring into a tumbler, the kind my father always used and still uses (I've never been able to convince him of the virtues of a wine glass); the family conversations and the aroma of those home-cooked meals that mothers do better than anyone.”

“I remember the empty glass pitchers we had at home, waiting for our weekend trips to Rioja. Long road trips filled with images of wineries and vineyards and those unbelievable fall days in Rioja Alavesa when the vineyards are tinged with red. The smell of damp earth after the rain, and of springtime when the days began to get longer. I recall the sound of the wind rustling the vines, and harvest sunsets when faces, marked by exhaustion and hard work, belied the happiness of a job well done.”

It seems only natural that Julio's decision to dedicate his life to winemaking would gradually take hold:

“As a child, I was captivated by the vineyard landscape of Rioja. On Sundays, when we returned to Vitoria, I always told myself that one day I would be a part of it, then I would get to enjoy it every single day.”

Variety, soil and climate: Julio's wines

Well aware of Tempranillo’s importance and dominance in the region, he explains, “In the wines that I make, I always seek the identity and typicity of the variety and area, that finesse and elegance of Tempranillo, along with the characteristic freshness and fruit concentration of the terroirs of Rioja Alavesa. Wines that have soul and let the variety, soil and climate shine.”

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Familia Torres vineyard in Rioja Alavesa (municipality of Labastida, 1271 m)

According to Julio, “the presence of a winery known for its quality wines, long tradition, love for the land and respect for the environment is an enormous asset to the appellation of origin. On a personal level, it is an opportunity and a challenge to be part of a project from the outset and contribute to its development and growth.”

Julio is very attached to the simple pleasures in his daily life, setting aside time to observe and understand the vine and its environment. The harvest inevitably comes up, and the intensity with which he experiences it. For him, the work transcends the mere act of picking grapes:

“In this area, the harvest usually takes place in October, but the work picks up months before. Several months of demanding work in the vineyard that culminates with the grapes arriving at the winery.”

The work in the winery is thorough and meticulous in order for the wine to reflect its parcel of origin and the nuances that define a particular vintage. As for his own personal taste: “I expect a wine to be free of faults. Beyond that, it depends on the style and individual preference. Personally I prefer wines that express the typicity of their variety and provenance; wines that are elegant and balanced. I look for finesse and elegance rather than strength, although that also depends on the occasion.”

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Enologist and cellar master at La Carbonera winery (DOC Rioja)

According to Julio, we have all had incredible experiences that don't leave us with the same taste when we try to recreate them. Julio believes that this is because every moment is unique and unrepeatable.

“Every bottle of wine can bring about unforgettable moments with family or friends, but the moment I absolutely love the most is when I come home in the evening, and my wife and I have a glass of wine before dinner, and we tell each other about our day.”

This is what defines Julio. A man whose soul has a sense of place, who is devoted to his passions. Wine is in his blood—a born enologist.