If You Like Mad Men... You'll Like Brandy
Have you heard of brandy? Yes, exactly, that elegant gift people like to give to their doctor! Change two letters and “brandy” becomes “trendy,” which couldn't be more fitting. The spirit is back in style, although like all timeless classics, the most stylish of all grape spirits never went away. Cognac and Armagnac are both French Apellations Controlées. In Spain, we have two appellations that produce brandies: Jerez and Penedès.
A brandy's nose is captivating; it's perfume exhilarating. Old-fashioned? Anything but! Everything moves in cycles and right now the vintage look is the in-thing. Have you seen the new fall-winter runway collections? Nothing is more modern than going classic. Picture yourself in full Sixties style, sipping a delightful wine spirit in one of those wide, elegant, refined tumblers in the offices of the Sterling Cooper ad agency. This is the Mad Men aesthetic, the look of men like Don Draper, the ultimate style icon, in his fitted waistcoat, writing as he savors a long, relaxing drink. A complex individual defined by contradictions, but with clear ideas when it comes to taste. But make no mistake: brandy isn't (just) a man thing. Gender is irrelevant when it comes to a good palate, and there are more of us women every day who enjoy getting seduced by the alchemy of a very classy spirit.
Like this brandy from the Penedès, made from interesting varieties like Ugni Blanc and Parellada. It has a strong foundation: grapes high in acidity aged with parent wines. Can I tell you a secret? Most brandies sold in Spain are not distilled, but made from a pre-prepared distillate. Bodegas Torres is one of the few wineries—they can be counted on one hand—to distil its own spirits: the traditional way, the timeless way. Two of the most prized examples are Torres 20 and Jaume I.
Do you know how you can tell where brandy is aged? Take a closer look at the roof of a winery and you'll see dark mold. This is called la part des anges. The angels' share—that mysterious portion lost as the alcohol evaporates during aging—leaves its mark, enveloping the wineries in an alchemical aura. The final touch: American and French oak casks.
Would you like to be a master distiller? In the most idealistic scenario possible, you would set up your bed in a hall with a fractional still where you might spend two or three months distilling without pause, separating the “heads” and the “tails.” At which point you would be left with the finest fragrance: the heart.
When should we drink it? You need time to drink a brandy. It can't be downed as a shot. Keep in mind the length of time that has gone into making it. Cup the bottom of the glass to warm the brandy with your hand, your body heat. The brandy will then warm your spirit, although some prefer it on the rocks.
How should we drink it? Let's start a trend and call it “brandy time,” a time to philosophize. Pour yourself a small amount, allowing yourself to fall in love with its aroma so that you long to smell it again. The perfect pairing is actually a trio: a cup of coffee and a long conversation, accompanied by deep, lasting gazes.
For those who enjoy versatility, here's a curious fact: can you guess what the most popular drink is in Mexico? Torres 10 and coke: a mixed drink crowned in foam that adds a touch of distinction to your night.
The “when” and “how” are unimportant: choosing your “brandy time” is up to you. After all, the brandy waits with infinite patience and is here to stay.
If you like the series Mad Men, you'll like brandy because—to quote Coco Chanel— “fashion fades, but style endures.”
Meritxell Falgueras by Meritxell Falgueras
"I’m a young vine 30 vintages old who has grown up at the Celler de Gelida, a wine store that has provided fine wines for five generations.
At first sight people define me as clear and bright, with golden tinges and a slow tear. An assembly of words and wines that culminate with the oak aging of a doctoral thesis on the metaphors of wine tasting. I have a bouquet of romantic flowers and wild fruit.
On the palate, I’m very savoury, with a hint of sweetness and a spicy aftertaste. A cosmopolitan wine that transmits "joie de vivre" in every single sip."