From Organic Wines to "Eco-sustainable" wines
About organic wines
Organic wines (also known as ecological and/or biological) are generally speaking, wines made from grapes where synthetic fertilizers, pesticides or weed killers have not been used. This practice is regulated by EU Commission Regulation 203/2012 that establishes the oenological processes and treatments both allowed and prohibited in organic winemaking.
Here is a brief approximation of the main characteristics of organic viticulture and winemaking:
Characteristics of organic viticulture
Organic viticulture differs from the conventional type in the following ways: Soil fertility is maintained by:
- Using organic, natural fertilizers.
- 100% mechanical tillage.
- Cover crops.
The goal is to nourish the soil that feeds the plant.
Maintenance of biodiversity through:
- Cover crops, floral borders, uncultivated land strips...
- Peripheral shrubland, forests ...
- The maintenance of natural plants and animal ecosystems
Goal: Maintaining biodiversity is essential to the health of the plant during its growth cycle.
Combatting pests and diseases by:
- Prevention!
- Responsible cultural activity
Objective: To produce grapes with the best possible state of health by using proactive pest detection, instead of reactive practices involving aggressive treatments for the plant and its natural environment.
Organically based winery working practices
As we have already mentioned, responsible and respectful vineyard management is essential, but tasks carried out at the winery also require certain procedures to meet organic certification requirements at all stages, from fermentation to bottling. They are listed below:
- Fermentation with indigenous yeasts.
- Clarification with natural products (bentonite and albumin).
- Physical filtration.
- Minimal SO2 use (sulphur dioxide, used to prevent the proliferation of acetic acid bacteria, responsible for the premature oxidation of wine).
- Bottling and shipping, with recyclables.
- Labels printed with ecological ink.
- Bottle caps free of heavy metals.
- Waste management, water treatment, composting grape pomace.
A commitment to the future: From Organic Wines to "eco-sustainable" wines
In November 2012 more than 350 specialists gathered at the third Sustainable Eco Wine conference in Vilafranca del Penedès and Bodegas Torres was one of the main sponsors. The conference concluded with a call for the definition of mechanisms to create this new category to regulate "eco-sustainable" production and wine making.
One of the main conclusions of the conference was that current production systems - integrated, organic and biodynamic - have different approaches and requirement levels when it comes to sustainability, but none really provide a holistic perspective that integrates as many environmental aspects as possible, such as the use of alternative energies, water management, natural resources and biodiversity, carbon footprint, etc..
"I hope in the future that organic wines also take climate change into consideration. The fact that a wine is made according to organic criteria does not automatically help combat climate change. Therefore, we are in favour of a new European "eco-sustainable" wine category that incorporates new environmental issues that go beyond the strictly regulated."
Miguel A. Torres
Habitat range
In Spain we have over 600 hectares of certified organic vineyards, in Chile 350 and 32 in California. In Chile, all our vineyards are certified organic since March 2012. The rest we are gradually certifying, but in reality we have been working organically in our vineyards for many years, avoiding the use of synthetic chemical treatments and replacing them with biological alternatives.
The new Habitat range of organic wines embodies the link between ecology and sustainability. It is strictly made according to the requirements of organic farming, certified by the official agency of the EU (Euro-leaf) and local regulation (CCPA).
While this is the winery’s first certified organic wine, the winemaking does not differ from the methods Bodegas Torres uses for the rest of its wines.
Habitat white is made with 60% Garnacha Blanca and 40% Xarel·lo, two white varieties identified as native to the area.
- The Xarel·lo comes from the Penedès, from old vines where mainly ripeness is sought after, producing wines with 13.5-13.8% alcohol content.
- The Garnacha Blanca is from our suppliers in Terra Alta, almost ancestral vineyards where grapes are harvested slightly less ripe so that they don’t oxidise as much (12% alc.). They have floral and vegetal notes.
- On the nose it is an intense wine, fresh and fruity, with citrus notes, over a background of green apple and subtle herbal hints. On the palate it is full bodied, with good acidic structure and a long fresh finish.
Habitat red is made with 60% Garnacha and 40% Syrah.
- The Garnacha comes from the Terra Alta area, from old vineyards with “gobelet” pruning. It is harvested quite ripe.
- The Syrah comes from the area of Verdú (Lleida), in the Vall de Riucorb, a land with hillside slopes. This variety is harvested somewhat less ripe. What is desired here is smoothness on the palate and fruit and violet notes on the nose.
- Of bright cherry colour, it has a very sensual aromatic strength: blackberry and blueberry jam, black figs, dates ... On the palate it is deep and velvety, with ripe tannins that provide the intensity of liquorice and mineral terroir notes reminiscent of graphite (pencil lead).
Adapting to climate change: the challenge of 21st century viticulture
We will not speculate on what might happen over the next century, the following reflection is not intended to be an intellectual scientific essay outlining any dogma, but aims to clarify with the utmost rigor and simplicity, that which is already happening on the ground and the consequences of climate change on the vine.
The Causes
But, how did we get here?
In addition to natural causes, changeable and sporadic episodes that now and again may affect changes in climate, anthropogenic causes - (generated by human activity) – such as the overuse of fossil fuels, paint an aura of guilt that hangs over our heads. CO2 emissions have increased exponentially over the past 40 years, and there is overwhelming proof that CO2 levels, deforestation and temperature levels have varied simultaneously.
The vineyard and climate today: climate change effects
Rising temperatures affect phenological aspects of the vineyard and especially ripening processes. Varieties like Garnacha, which reaches its optimum ripeness in late September, can already show a very high concentration of sugars in late August, equivalent to an alcohol content of 14-15%...
Garnacha
But how do these changes affect wine? To simplify, this can be explained as follows:
Berries achieve a high concentration of sugar much earlier; however, the skins and seeds ripen more slowly which can result in unbalanced wines with a significantly increased level of alcohol in addition to unripe green tannins, decisively affecting wine quality.
High temperatures can also cause the pH of grapes to increase, meaning acidity decreases, thereby accelerating wines’ aging with the conservation problems that this entails.
In short:
- Increased level of alcohol
- Decrease in acidity, fragile wines
- Accelerated aging
So the challenge is to delay ripening. To do this we are experimenting with different vine training systems, cover crops, planting density and trials with different rootstocks.
We are also preparing for the worst case scenario: Our current vineyards in Catalonia can still support temperature increases of 1-2°C, but if this progression increased, the vineyards would have to move to higher ground. In fact, we already have over 100 hectares of vineyards in the Pre-Pyrenees (in Tremp at 850 metres), with excellent results. And recently we acquired another plot at around 1,200 metres altitude, although it is still too cool there to grow vines.
St. Miquel Vineyard, Tremp
From reaction to prevention
What attitude should we adopt when faced with these changes? Obviously the key is prevention. It is necessary to increase investment in R+D+i and this should be assumed and understood by wineries as an inherent condition in their production models: an inevitable investment to adapt to this new climatic reality.
On the other hand, ethical environmentally friendly land management is no longer an option but an obligation.
Today there are many wineries that take steps to adapt to the new rules of the game, although with varying degrees of conviction, needless to say. This is perfectly understandable as this new model of viticulture only supports a long-term view, where science, huge doses of effort and patience are put into something that often and at times, seems to become a mere philosophical trend in the absence of immediate results. There is no room for short-term objectives.
The more we care for the earth the better our wines
This is the maxim that revolves around all projects assigned to the Torres & Earth program: the continuation of a series of projects initiated over 20 years ago, which aim to achieve a sustainable production model, through responsible management of our energy consumption and water resources, as well as taking care of our natural environment and its biodiversity. To find out more about the projects carried out, follow this link: www.torresearth.com .
Wineries for Climate Protection (WFCP)
Bodegas Torres is part of a group of wineries that combine efforts to regulate and agree on preventive policies, given the impact of climate change on the vine. WFCP is a movement initiated in 2011 by the Spanish wine sector whose ultimate objective is to protect the climate and the vineyard, through sustainable development that does not compromise the resources and conditions for human life. This initiative materialized in June 2011 under the "Barcelona Declaration", a Decalogue of commitments voluntarily assumed by the signatories’ wineries. The statement urges the Spanish Wine Federation (FEV) and the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV) to establish a protocol for action to be taken by wineries, and to develop the appropriate oversight mechanisms to ensure compliance with the commitments acquired with the signing of this manifesto. http://www.wineriesforclimateprotection.com/
Conclusion
Reaching a consensus on sustainability in organic wine production is highly necessary. The integration of preventive practices against the effects of climate change on the production of wines should be articulated and shared by all stakeholders in the sector.
We must take the path of return, a return to fair and balanced viticulture, where the earth and its population live in harmony, where today's technical advances allow us to work our vineyards with an eye towards a hopeful future. It is our duty, for the earth and those who will work it after us, to start this debate. A necessary and urgent debate.
Sources and Links:
http://www.wineriesforclimateprotection.com/
http://www.oiv.int/oiv/cms/index?lang=es
“El Vina y el Clima: Una relación amenazada”: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6oAFYc73T4
Diccionario Salvat del Vino, Mauricio Wiesenthal. Ed. Salvat