Dossier: A Look at the Penedès
Unsurprisingly, archaeological findings reveal the importance of the grape and wine to the area as far back as the ancient Iberians. Both the climate conditions of the Penedès and its proximity to strategically important, commercial ports have made the region (both then and now) an enclave of exceptional cultural wealth with a vast history of grape growing and winemaking.
Although the Roman poet Anneo Floro wrote, in reference to local reds, that "the wines produced in these hills are comparable to the most exquisite Italy has to offer," the Penedès did not take on an important role in the production of high-quality wines until the mid- 20th century.
We will not dwell on the reasons why the Penedès, in spite of its great potential, was essentially a supply region for a long time. We do, however, wish to include a couple of brief examples from different time periods that help to illustrate the fact that the Penedès was always the victim of its time and circumstance:
- When the French government closed its markets to Dutch merchants in the 17th century, the latter turned their attention to Spain. As a result, the noble varieties of the Penedès were replaced by vast quantities of white varieties used in the production of brandy in order to meet the needs of the new Dutch ally. And this is how it was for more than two centuries, interrupted only by the phylloxera plague.
- Spain's neutrality during WWI pushed Catalonia to seek new markets in need of a supplier, which meant the continuation of the high-volume cycle as the predominant production model.
This remained the status quo until midway between the 1950s and 1960s when the Penedès completed the transformation of its production model to focus on making and bottling quality still wines.
The ampelographic "garden" of the Penedès was broadened and revitalizedwith foreign varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, convinced of its natural adaptability to the soils of the vineyards planted with local varieties. At the same time, they modernized winemaking techniques and carried out daring investments to revive the productivity and prestige of the old winegrowing estates.
This important, dynamic impetus resulted in enormous, unprecedented advances in the regional industry, including the use of stainless steel tanks with cooling systems to control fermentation temperatures.
The culmination of this immense revival took place in 1976 when the Penedès was approved as an Appellation of Origin. By then, a regulating council was in place, founded in 1960 as a way of controlling production, the yields of the vineyards, and the quantity of grapes destined to make the wines certified by the appellation of origin.
Today, the Penedès continues to lead viticultural and enological research in Spain. The presence of countless wineries both large and small that also own their own vineyards (not as common as one might think) creates healthy competition. This does wonders to stimulate the growth of an industry that turns its wines and cavas into defining symbols of the region's identity.
Environment and Climate
One could say that there is more than one Penedès. The region lies between the mountains and the sea, in the heart of the pre-coastal depression of Catalonia. Looking at it, one could think a wine-loving landscaper had designed the region. The terrain rises in a series of steps: from the Maritime Penedès, brushing up against the coastal mountain range, to the Central Penedès, nestled between Montserrat and the coast, and the Upper Penedès, with vineyards located at elevations of up to 700 meters and offering a mirror image of the classic, Central European vineyard.
Generally speaking, the soils are quaternary, calcareous and clayey. Grey-brownish in color and poor in organic matter, they are ideal for growing grapes.
Climate conditions in the wine region are typically Mediterranean; in other words, mild and warm. However, given its elevation and proximity to the coast, the Penedès is blessed with a variety of microclimates that encourage ampelographic diversity.
- The Maritime Penedès (or Lower Penedès) is home to the warmest and most humid areas where temperatures can reach above 30ºC. It receives between 2400 and 2500 hours of sunlight per year, and annual rainfall is estimated at 400 millimeters per year.
- The Central Penedès also has a Mediterranean climate, but it is drier and the winters are colder.
- The Upper Penedès is much colder than the other two areas. Despite its proximity to the coast, the Mediterranean climate is less obvious here and the area presents continental climate characteristics.
Varieties and Wines
The Penedès boasts an immensely rich ampelographic spectrum, which makes the appellation one of the most versatile and flexible in all of Europe. It covers everything from the youngest and most aromatic whites to the roundest reds with magnificent aging potential.
When young, the white varieties of the Penedès display an enviable aromatic range as well as achieving an excellent balance between acidity and alcohol. Traditional varieties include Xarel·lo, Macabeo, Parellada (the cava trilogy), Malvasía de Sitges and, to a lesser extent, white Garnacha. Parellada, which is grown in the Upper Penedès, is quite possibly the most delicate. It is known for its good acidity and allows for the production of dry, fruity whites with moderate alcohol levels.
The most widely cultivated international varieties include Chardonnay, Riesling, Muscat Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer. Cultivation of these varieties is largely concentrated in the Central and Upper Penedès. The one exception is Muscat, which is mainly grown in the Lower Penedès where the vineyards are sheltered by the coast.
The range of red varieties offers almost limitless possibilities. Traditional varieties like red Garnacha, Monastrell, Samsó, Ull de Llebre (Tempranillo) or Sumoll exist in perfect harmony alongside foreign varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Syrah, Merlot or the elegant Pinot Noir that are well established in the region by now.
Garnacha is commonly used in the rosés of the Penedès. Given the alcohol levels and body of Garnacha wines, the reds are exceptionally well suited to oak aging.
The timeless Cabernet Sauvignon stands out on its own, giving expression to a complex, intense and classic character. The wines display great personality and exceptional aging potential. It comes as no surprise that many wineries in the region choose the variety as the star of their noblest varietal wines.
Torres in the Penedès
The Penedès is home to the vineyards that give birth to four of the winery's icon wines, nothing short of a declaration of respect and loyalty to our land.
- Located in the heart of the Penedès, our Mas la Plana Estate comprises 29 hectares dedicated entirely to the cultivation of the Cabernet Sauvignon used in making one of our most award-winning wines, Mas la Plana. The wine's first vintage—1970—beat the most renowned French chateaux at the Gault Millau Olympiade Du Vin in 1979.
- In the town of Santa María de Miralles in the Upper Penedès lies our Fransola Estate where, at an elevation of 550 meters, we cultivate 198 hectares of some of our vineyard's most characteristic varieties. Amongst them are 25 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc dedicated exclusively to the production of Fransola. The clayey soils with a trace of gypsum make the terrain a perfect grape-growing enclave.
- Nestled into the pre-coastal mountain range at an elevation of 550 meters, the beautiful country estate of Mas Palau sits along an old, medieval road. On 10 hectares, we grow the Pinot Noir we use to make Mas Borràs. This exceptionally delicate variety requires a continental climate, higher elevation and a marked contrast between daytime and nighttime temperatures.
- The historical estate of Santa Margarida d'Agulladolç in the town of Mediona has four hectares of old grapevines that grow in very fine slate soils. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot thrive at the foot of a Romanesque hermitage dating back to the 12th century. They endow our Reserva Real, a unique wine limited to extraordinary vintages, with its legendary air.
We have our roots in the Penedès; the region is our home.It brings us back to our essence, our origins. A tacit agreement of sorts that acknowledges everything we owe to this place and everything we are.
References and useful links:
· "Vins i Caves de Catalunya," Alfred Reixach. Published by L’isard
· "Diccionario Salvat del Vino," Mauricio Wiesenthal. Published by Salvat