Dossier: Cava vs. Champagne…and Other Sparkling Wines

A brief note on sparkling wines

Put very simply, a sparkling wine undergoes a second fermentation. This process takes place in a contained environment—steel tanks or in the bottle itself—and generates carbon dioxide, some of which remains in the end product, giving the wine its characteristic bubbles.

Much more than just champagne

Fine, champagne might sit high up on the sparkling Olympus, gazing down at its international siblings, but there is a whole world of sparkling wines awaiting discovery. And trust us, it's a journey worth taking.

Sparkling wines are produced in places as varied as Catalonia (cava), northwestern Italy (lambrusco, asti, prosecco) and Germany (sekt) and, more often than not, they measure up quite nicely to their counterparts from the celebrated French region.

Below we will see that the methods used in making these wines greatly influence the style and quality of the end product:

Tank fermentation vs. bottle fermentation

All sparkling wines, whether they undergo their second fermentation in a tank or bottle, start out as a still wine that is generally quite neutral and low in alcohol. This is because the process of making a sparkling wine generates an additional 1% to 2% ABV.

After this point, however, the paths diverge...

Tank fermentation

· This method is used to produce fresh, fruity wines that are low in alcohol and not particularly complex.

· Fermentation takes place in a sealed tank that prevents the carbon dioxide from escaping. The gas subsequently dissolves into the wine and is preserved thanks to a pressurized bottling process.

· The base wine could consist of partially fermented must, in which case it will complete fermentation in the tank. When using this method, it is possible to interrupt fermentation, making it especially appropriate for the production of sweet sparkling wines that are low in alcohol (asti).

· Another option is using a completely fermented, dry wine and adding sugar and yeast to initiate a second fermentation in the tank (prosecco, sekt).

Bottle fermentation

1.

· These fermentation methods are used to make high-quality sparkling wines like cava or champagne, in addition to certain high-end types of asti, prosecco and sekt. Here the goal is to create complexity by preserving and expressing the flavors of the grape and bringing them into balance with the flavors acquired during aging.

· The effort and work involved in making high-quality sparkling wines is much greater as are the production costs. The end result, however, is exquisite.

Cava vs. champagne: same method, different result

2.

The vast majority of quality cavas and champagnes are produced using the same process, known as the traditional or champagne method:

· The base wine is a blend of still, dry wine combined with a mixture of sugar and yeast. The concoction is bottled, sealed and stored away.

· Once bottled, the wine undergoes a second fermentation. As a result, the alcohol content goes up slightly and the carbon dioxide dissolves into the wine.

· After fermentation, the wine is aged, a process during which the yeasts contribute flavors to the wine (yeast autolysis) reminiscent of biscuits and bread. This process can take a very long time, ranging from months to years.

· After the aging process is complete, the yeast deposits are removed to prevent them from clouding the wine. This process is called disgorgement. The first step involves turning the bottles an eighth of a turn at set times to move the dead yeast cells into the neck of the bottle.

· Then the neck is frozen and the cap is removed in such a way that the pressure inside of the bottle expels the deposits. Since the bottle loses liquid during disgorging, it is usually topped up afterwards:

· This step is known as the dosage. The bottle is topped up with a mixture of wine and sugar (also known as the liqueur d'expédition or “shipping liquor”), which determines the sweetness of the wine. The enologist is responsible for making this decision.

What then differentiates cava from champagne? Let's take a closer look:

What you should know about champagne...

3.

· The varieties used in making champagne: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The resulting base wines are usually medium bodied with average acidity and low alcohol.

· The long aging process adds yeast-imparted notes—bread, biscuit and toast—that, along with fruit notes (apple, lemon), build a level of complexity that is further accentuated by prolonged bottle aging.

· Did you know that with the exception of certain vintage Grandes Marques, champagne does not have a vintage? This is due to the fact that the Champagne region is very cold and marked by unpredictable weather conditions that may vary significantly from harvest to harvest. As a result, most champagne is made by blending grapes from several, different vintages.

· All of the above drives up the cost of production and makes champagne so expensive.

...And as for cava

4.

· Cava deserves more credit. Plain and simple. The days when it was labeled as lacking in complexity and excessively carbonated are long gone.

· Although cava is generally consumed when it reaches the market, this is due to consumption habits. In other words, a question of cultural preference. These days, wine producers make Gran Reserva cavas that have been aged for a long time, with a complexity and quality to rival the most celebrated champagne.

· The varieties used in cava production are known as the "cava trilogy of the Penedès appellation": Macabeo, Xarel·lo and Parellada. These varieties thrive in the cava region par excellence: our beloved home, the Penedès. That being said, using Chardonnay as part of the base wine is becoming increasingly common due to a constant search for greater complexity and aging potential.

· Based on the sugar content, a cava can be brut nature (extra dry), brut (very dry), seco (dry), semiseco (semi-dry) or dulce (sweet). As a result, it offers a degree of versatility and pairing possibilities rarely seen in sparkling wines.

· The main advantage of cava vs. champagne is climatic: more sunshine means the grapes ripen more fully. As a result, cava does not need additional sugar to achieve a smooth palate.

As many of you probably know, we are currently working on our first cava, which will be released in 2016. The project is ambitious and not much more can be revealed at this time...but we'll keep you posted on all new developments so remember to check in with our—your—blog regularly!

Cheers!